![]() Battery holder for 8xAA batteries (not included), cable and clips.Aluminum housing with matte black finish.200 RGB LEDs with diffusion lens, split into two panels.Any bitmap (BMP) picture can be added to the Pixelstick on an SD memory card through the device’s controller. The LED panel is mounted to a handle with an additional spin sleeve, designed for fluid ‘painting’ movements. These programmable LEDs allow the Pixelstick to paint colourful patterns and photoreal images, which are in turn captured with a camera through a long exposure. Each LED is able to produce any colour and flash on and off at particular speeds and colour sequences. The Pixelstick is a linear digital light panel packed with 200 full-colour (RGB) LEDs. Made possible through the funding platform Kickstarter back in October 2013, the Pixelstick appears to be a dream come true for any aspiring light-painting photographer without the technical wizardry to create a complicated light-painting tool for themselves. This looks set to change with the Pixelstick. It’s a photography form that has moved on leaps and bounds from its early days, although to date, the most sophisticated light-painting tools have been created at home by passionate light-painting photographers. There’s a growing number of photographers heading out in the dark, with a camera, tripod and light source in hand to explore the creative possibilities of light-painting photography. Tim Coleman takes a closer look in his Pixelstick review. I am not sure if the cams are moulded exactly the same as the ones on my Panasonics.The Pixelstick looks set to expand the possibilities of light painting, making it even easier to be creative. Of course there is still the problem of sourcing the cams themselves. Thus the cam can be carefully installed, even when the connector is partly broken. ![]() I have successfully refitted the cam part from a Panasonic AE2000 to AE4000, which had all the parts that support the cam gone. Replacing the cam is possible all the way until the pins are bent too much or completely broken, after which it is impossible to refit the cam to the connector. Now when it comes to replacing or fixing the connector, it is no easy task and also not very cheap, since the quotes I got for a single connector started from 30$/pc Again, the only difference seems to be in the moulding of the plastic parts, while the pinout and overall dimensions remain the sameĪlso Panasonic part number K1MY84BA0200 is listed, and according to this discussion, the connector was available for a feasible price ~15$ at least at some point. I'd like to know if it is possible to transfer the cam part of the S-3H connector to the -C3 connector. Of course I cannot be completely sure without ever seeing the S-3H in person). I am still confident the connector is functionally the same to the S-3H connector. I recently found the full connector part number from A Panasonic projector service manual. Most likely it is still fully compatible replacement. The connector FF22E-084B-R13A-S-3H is apparently slightly different in moulding to at least the ones on Panasonic models. This should be true at least for 1080p projectors, since they will probably have the same amount of connectors on the LCD panel cables across a manufacturer regardless of the model. Most likely many Epson models which share the same housing designs also share the same 84pin DDK connector. ![]() Other Panasonic 1080p models across their professional and home cinema projectors are also very likely to contain the same kind of connectors. The connector is used by my knowledge at least on TW3200 (Epson 8350 in the US) and Panasonic PT-AE1000,PT-AE2000,PT-AE3000,PT-AE4000 projectors. The connector in question is this one from Japanese manufacturer DDK: The connector most likely has markings on opposing sides of the connector for "84" and "DDK" on the cable insertion side. ![]()
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